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When you buy a bike it's made for the "average" rider, with all sorts of compromises made. They use things like progressively wound springs, rather than a straight-rate spring of appropriate rating. I don't really believe in progressively wound springs. In many cases when you set the proper sag for your weight, you'll end up using up almost all of the lowest spring rate anyway. Unless you weigh 150 pounds the odds are that your suspension isn't properly set up for you, on a sportbike. It tends to be set up on the plush side, rather than the performance side of the equation. Having springs that are better suited to your weight, whatever it might be, can only help. Aftermarket shocks also tend to have better damping control, as the stock units are made to a cost. Many have little or no effect from adjustment. So I spend less than $7500.00 on the bike, then toss $2000.00 at it in suspension components, and get a bike that handles better for me than the one for $3-$K more would. Horsepower is largely immaterial, on the street. |
The 150-lb target might have been true several years ago, but nowadays most of the SS 600's and liter bikes are set up for heavier people. I know a lot of people including myself who have swapped in softer springs. Especially Kawis and Yamis. My 2005 R6 was way oversprung, and the people at Racetech confirmed it. Same goes for first generation 675's and 636's.
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I have no idea what the stock spring rate is for the ER, as it doesn't appear to be in the shop manual, but I would guess it to be over-sprung like the Ninja 650R is (an insane 1.2Kg/mm). I guess that they did this to hide the fact that they used damper rod forks, in what is nominally a sportbike. Bikes like the SV650 are grossly under-sprung. They're perfect if you're a 120 pounder, but not so much for anyone else. My '00 VFR800 had something like 0.75 Kg/mm springs. I needed 0.95, and that was for a plush sport-touring style ride. I don't think that the more recent VFRs have stronger rate springs than that. |
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And just swapping out the fork springs potentially leaves you with a poorly damped setup. I'm dropping in a full cartridge setup for about $700.00 ;) Brakes? I could replace the brake lines with stainless, but I've found that I get most of the benefit of them with just a pad swap. Transmission? Works beautifully, thank-you very much. Especially so when I'm above 7K rpm. Rake and trail? It's fine for me. Ergonomics were more of a concern, which I handled by just swapping the bars for a straighter set. Unsprung weight? That would be nice, but the suspension alone will make the ride head and shoulders above the stock setup. If it comes right down to it I could likely do a wheel swap still coming out at less than that $3K more total that you stated, to which I would be adding $1.5-$2K in suspension mods anyway. |
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Yeah, well he did a basic shock replacement, springs, and a fork brace ;)
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I've added steel lines to 2 cars and 1 bike, and couldn't tell the difference. Never again. |
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