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Old 12-15-2009, 06:15 AM   #11
OTB
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I use it in everyday riding..especially on long open sweepers. Keeps me at a constant lean without making scalloped turns. High speed twisties...not so much..

try it, you'll like it...
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:33 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No Worries View Post

One of the many reasons I like my old GS1000 is that my throttle connects directly with the carbs. When I open the throttle, the piston/needle rises exactly the same as my throttle, letting in as much fuel as my right hand says.

There are no vacuum operated pistons that rise up due to air pressure like the constant velocity carbs on my old CBR1000. And there are no fuel injectors that have a dozen sensors that let in exactly as much fuel as the computer tells it to.

Is my right hand better than a computer? Hell no. I've bogged the engine many times, opening the throttle too fast or being in the wrong gear. One place I think I'm better than a computer is going into and coming out of a downhill corner. I feel that I can transition between the brake and throttle so smoothly that there is little suspension movement.
Someone else understands!!!!!

I've tried to explain this to people about the KZ, but they don't get it.

It was something I really enjoyed on the 1977 350 4 barrel Pontiac, too.
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:35 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleck750 View Post
Someone else understands!!!!!

I've tried to explain this to people about the KZ, but they don't get it.

It was something I really enjoyed on the 1977 350 4 barrel Pontiac, too.
I also prefer the slides to be a mechanical connection, but you have to have ridden a bike with those type carbs enough to know the difference. Most folks on here haven't.

Your 77 Pauncho had vacuum operated secondaries unless it had an after market mechanical linkage carb on it. Back in prehistoric days, we used to use screws and such to force the secondaries to open with the linkage instead of waiting for the diaphragm to ease them open on carbs that we could rig it on, like a Holley.
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Old 12-15-2009, 10:04 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT BSTRD View Post
Strange you should ask. I actually consciously did this while riding this afternoon.

I think in limited traction situations the benefits/application options are diminished.


I find, though, that cornering arc decreases with the input of throttle and increases with throttle reduction.

I must be doing it wrong.
You aren't doing it wrong but you aren't at the threshold of traction.

It should be even more obvious in low traction situations (think ice).

Here is an extreme example but it shows it well.

If he used less throttle, he could hold a tighter line, more throttle pulls him toward the outside of the turn.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRHoAKn4KnY
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:21 AM   #15
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In everyday riding i sometimes modulate throttle in long corners at normal highway speeds to keep my line. Its a lazy way to maintain your arc. In high speed situations like racing I am applying all the throttle the rear tire and corner radius will stand. Backing it off at any point will just kill your drive down the next straight. Pause if you must, but dont lift.
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:25 PM   #16
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Are we discussing drifting in a street thread? Everyone makes corrections in a corner whether they are body position, counter-steer, braking or throttle... I typically enter a corner off the throttle completely and on the brakes then I let off the brakes as I increase the throttle at the apex/exit of the corner. I don't think that I input throttle while entering a corner personally. I realize that I could be doing it wrong.
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:35 PM   #17
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Throttle on corner entry means you are either going very slow (slower than you could be) or are very skilled. Generally speaking (except for adv riders) you should be done braking before the apex. Then you should pick up the throttle to what is referred to as maintenance throttle. It helps keep the bike and the suspension working properly. If you turn the bike in and simply shut the throttle off and leave it that way you will probably run wide and run the risk of losing the front via low side because of the added weight transferred to the front off throttle. This is of course very dependent on speed. As you continue through the corner toward exit you should be continually and gradually opening the throttle.
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:43 PM   #18
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Interesting thread. My line doesn't really tighten when I roll off the throttle, but it's because if I'm rolling off the throttle mid-corner it's because I've fugged up and my ass-puckerage is making the thing stand up
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Old 12-15-2009, 01:55 PM   #19
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Default My god.........................

...you guys crack me up!

Read the first bloody post, for God's sake!

It is a skill, a technique, just another trick you SHOULD have in your kitbag.

Some of you do it without thinking about it, some of you follow a rote formula....brakes on, slowing, brakes off, initiate turn-in, hit apex, begin acceleration, exit turn........ which is fine on trackdays and the twisties......

BUT....usually I gotta put a lot of miles on to do either.... this is a technique for day-to-day riding when I'm not WFO, to smooth out my arc through less-than-smooth bends at less than max speeds. Like the freeway, the roads leading to the freeway, ect.

Depending on the bike, when I'm droning down the road from point A to B, I rest my throttle-hand index finger on the throttle housing; I can then use the support to fine-tune both my speed and arc through turns without making gross changes.....the name of the game is SMOOOOTH.......

Remember, it's just another little technique to throw in your repertoire.
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Old 12-15-2009, 02:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tached1000rr View Post
Grossly exaggerated here, but need to tighten up arc, carefully chop/reduce throttle input, need to widen arc, give it more throttle, with more throttle the bike wants to come/straighten up.


Thats bass-ackwards from what I've ever heard/experienced.

If I've overshot a corner, I lean harder and give it gas to tighten it up.

BRAKING makes a bike stand up and want to go straight


Unless I'm totally misunderstanding the original statement
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