50cc engine troubles, need some help...video inside. - Page 3

Amber Lamps · 06-23-2009, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Negative Ghost Rider.

Brake cleaner, as the name implies, is for cleaning brakes. This is why it has the words BRAKE CLEANER stamped on the can, in big fucking letters.

Do not spray that shit in your carbs. It eats seals, o-rings and plastic bits, like M&M's in a microwave.

I would use CARB CLEANER, instead.

I would also buy the 15 buck rebuilt kit, since that thing is ancient.

JC

I will defer to your greater knowledge but I do have a question that has always bothered me...um... don't brakes have o-rings and seals as well? The only reason I mentioned brake cleaner was to blow out the jets. I didn't want to use it to clean the carbs. I thought about freon spray but they don't sell it anymore for some reason

or air in a can...

I'm gonna crawl away now and lick my wounds! I really, really need to keep my mouth shut.

BobTheBiker · 06-23-2009, 06:33 PM

Have you considered that possibly, the carb you have is te wrong one?

askmrjesus · 06-23-2009, 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TIGGER

I will defer to your greater knowledge but I do have a question that has always bothered me...um... don't brakes have o-rings and seals as well? The only reason I mentioned brake cleaner was to blow out the jets. I didn't want to use it to clean the carbs. I thought about freon spray but they don't sell it anymore for some reason

or air in a can...

I'm gonna crawl away now and lick my wounds! I really, really need to keep my mouth shut.

That's a good question. Most people mistake brake cleaner for something that is meant for cleaning the entire brake system, when in reality, it's really just for pads and rotors.

Kaneman, if the spray cleaner isn't getting the job done, you might want to try a dunk tank (carb cleaner in a one gallon gan, with a basket for setting the carb in) and soaking it overnight.

Paul also had good advice about checking the boot for holes or rips. An air leak would definitely cause the symptoms you're describing.

JC

Kaneman · 06-23-2009, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BobTheBiker

Have you considered that possibly, the carb you have is te wrong one?

It appears to be exactly the same as the one in my shop manual made for the Z50R. There are full diagrams of all 49-99cc carbs in the book.

Quote:

Originally Posted by askmrjesus

Kaneman, if the spray cleaner isn't getting the job done, you might want to try a dunk tank (carb cleaner in a one gallon gan, with a basket for setting the carb in) and soaking it overnight.

Paul also had good advice about checking the boot for holes or rips. An air leak would definitely cause the symptoms you're describing.

JC

When you guys say boot are you talking about the one that goes over the cable cover on top of the carb?

I'm pretty sure the carb is clean, like I said, the spray cleaner just came shootin out all the jets with no disturbance and a good spray pattern. Then it got on my skin and that was really fun!

Here is the current running condition, notice that it fires right up, but then doesn't want to run at all. This is full throttle...

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MOTORCYCLE TIRES

BobTheBiker · 06-23-2009, 07:05 PM

since you've proven your carb is clean, thats not he issue. how's the ignition TIMING? thinkng about it now, its JUST like Sniper's RD when the points were out of whack. check the timing and gap, its probable that they're not set right.

Kaneman · 06-23-2009, 07:21 PM

I'm going to order a condensor and points from www.dratv.com for $12, replace them and see what happens. Will keep you guys posted.
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Vaporizer Wiki

Trip · 06-23-2009, 07:47 PM

I would go ahead and do a rebuild kit too, put that off too long and you have a broken 50 engine aka see my garage.

BobTheBiker · 06-23-2009, 07:54 PM

you're kinda missing my point. your points/condencer may be just fine, but just need adjustment to make the motor run well.

I'd spring for an electronic kit to ditch the points honestly.

Rangerscott · 06-23-2009, 07:56 PM

Kaneman man I am in the same spot as you with my 72cc engine (pretty much the same as your 50cc).

After a good 20 kicks, it'll start and idle fine, but no power. I would have to have the choke almost completely on even when the engine was warm.

I took the engine apart and the piston has a lot of scuffing and the second oil ring has about 5mm of it broken off. Still there but snapped. One of the valves is missing a valve seal. The head is all carbon build up.

I tried a stock carb with stock jetting and an aftermarket carb (they usually have a bigger venturi) with a bigger main jet to compensate for the change in air velocity because of the bigger venturi and still no go.

I'm currently rebuilding the engine. Here's my photobucket pics of the process. I'm delayed now cause I have to order a socket spanner to get the clutch off to get to the oil pump.

http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Honda%20CL70/

Rangerscott · 06-23-2009, 08:01 PM

First off, get a Honda manual on it. Helps soooo much. I broke down and bought one on mine.

Mine has a contact point and can be adjusted (timing). Check to see if its corroded or not, then check to see if its closing/opening at the right time/position.

There is ebay to get parts and this place. http://dratv.com/ I hear nothing but good things.

They have manuals and how-to's hidden in the sight. I say hidden cause you may have to click on a part and then there might be manual or a blown up pic beside it.

06-23-2009, 07:21 PM	#26
Kaneman AMA Supersport Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Odessa, TX Moto: 2000 Honda CBR1100XX Blackbird Posts: 4,931	I'm going to order a condensor and points from www.dratv.com for $12, replace them and see what happens. Will keep you guys posted. ________ Vaporizer Wiki Last edited by Kaneman; 05-09-2011 at 09:09 PM..

06-23-2009, 07:56 PM	#29
Rangerscott Viff6N Mutated Warrior Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Moto: '01 Honda VFR 800 & '09 ER-6N Posts: 8,704	Kaneman man I am in the same spot as you with my 72cc engine (pretty much the same as your 50cc). After a good 20 kicks, it'll start and idle fine, but no power. I would have to have the choke almost completely on even when the engine was warm. I took the engine apart and the piston has a lot of scuffing and the second oil ring has about 5mm of it broken off. Still there but snapped. One of the valves is missing a valve seal. The head is all carbon build up. I tried a stock carb with stock jetting and an aftermarket carb (they usually have a bigger venturi) with a bigger main jet to compensate for the change in air velocity because of the bigger venturi and still no go. I'm currently rebuilding the engine. Here's my photobucket pics of the process. I'm delayed now cause I have to order a socket spanner to get the clutch off to get to the oil pump. http://s284.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Honda%20CL70/ Last edited by Rangerscott; 06-23-2009 at 08:02 PM..

06-23-2009, 06:33 PM	#22
BobTheBiker too much time on my hands Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: the northern district of god damn Moto: 01 ZX6R, looking for more now. Posts: 1,802	Have you considered that possibly, the carb you have is te wrong one?

06-23-2009, 07:05 PM	#25
BobTheBiker too much time on my hands Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: the northern district of god damn Moto: 01 ZX6R, looking for more now. Posts: 1,802	since you've proven your carb is clean, thats not he issue. how's the ignition TIMING? thinkng about it now, its JUST like Sniper's RD when the points were out of whack. check the timing and gap, its probable that they're not set right.

06-23-2009, 07:54 PM	#28
BobTheBiker too much time on my hands Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: the northern district of god damn Moto: 01 ZX6R, looking for more now. Posts: 1,802	you're kinda missing my point. your points/condencer may be just fine, but just need adjustment to make the motor run well. I'd spring for an electronic kit to ditch the points honestly.

06-23-2009, 08:01 PM	#30
Rangerscott Viff6N Mutated Warrior Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Moto: '01 Honda VFR 800 & '09 ER-6N Posts: 8,704	First off, get a Honda manual on it. Helps soooo much. I broke down and bought one on mine. Mine has a contact point and can be adjusted (timing). Check to see if its corroded or not, then check to see if its closing/opening at the right time/position. There is ebay to get parts and this place. http://dratv.com/ I hear nothing but good things. They have manuals and how-to's hidden in the sight. I say hidden cause you may have to click on a part and then there might be manual or a blown up pic beside it.