{ How To } Reloading center fire pistol ammo

'73 H1 Triple · 01-24-2010, 02:30 PM

Here's step by step instruction ( with pics ) on how to load center fire ammo. I'm doing .357 plinking ammo . The press is a single stage RCBC Rock Chucker, part of the Master Kit I got about 17 years ago.

No cliffs, details are too important to skim over. Also, safety glasses would be good to wear at all times.

Click the pictures for large view.

Above is the once fired cases, a set of reloading dies and in the orange case, shell holders.

Notice the titanium ring on the left die. If you have titanium nitride or carbide insert resizing dies, you do NOT have to lube the cases for resizing.

Pick the correct size shell holder ( from the chart and place that in the press ram. Screw in the resizing die until it almost touches and resize you cases.

Check for overall length after resizing. Trim and deburr if necessary.

Next step is to make a slight bell in the case opening. All you need is just enough for the bullet to start. The left and middle cases are belled while the right case is resized only.

Also during this time, check your cases for any defects ( cracks etc ).
If in doubt, throw it out

( like the case below- the end looks funny and it got tossed)

Using a primer pocket brush, clean the primer pocket to remove any burnt residue from the previous primer.

Above is the easiest way I've found to load the primer tool. Open pack to the required amount ( I usually do no more than 50 primers myself ), place the tray over it and while holding them together, turn it over. Remove primer package and make sure all are facing the correct way ( explosive primer compound UP ).
( note-these are large pistol primers which are not correct for .357 cases-- I primed some .44 mag cases )

After you have verified the correct powder, weight of charge for the bullet weight, throw and adjust the charge until it weighs correctly on the scale.

I have found the best way to get a more consistent charge on my powder throw is to "click" the handle twice ( lightly ) where it picks up the powder charge.

I put the primed, bell case under the powder throw and place a charge. I check ever 10th charge on the scale. If it varies , I dump those previous 10 and do it again.

I always work from one tray to another. My primed, belled cases are in the blue tray. I pick one up, place it under the powder throw, place and charge and it goes in the wooden tray. This way if they are handled, they get powder. :thumbs:

Look into each and every case for the same powder level. If it doesn't look right, dump the powder back in the powder throw and do it again. A missing/light charge could lodge a bullet in the barrel and the next round fired could blow up the gun. A double charge could blow up the gun in your hands. Neither is a good thing

Now you will be seating bullets. The main die section height controls the crimping of the bullet and the threaded portion controls the bullet height ( and overall length)

Too much crimp with smash/crinkle the case and not enough crimp will let the bullet move in the case. In the case of a revolver, too light a crimp will allow the bullet during the firing of the other rounds and it may jam the cylinder ( keep it from turning )

Here we are after loading 50 rounds

Be safe, have fun and enjoy
Jeff

marko138 · 01-25-2010, 12:28 PM

This thread is an ENORMOUS let down when you cant view the pics. FML.

racedoll · 04-01-2010, 10:38 PM

What kind of bench are you using for this? I'm looking for ideas.

'73 H1 Triple · 04-02-2010, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racedoll

What kind of bench are you using for this? I'm looking for ideas.

I made the bench myself and designed it so it comes apart easily. ( I made it when I lived at my other house and knew we were going to purchase a different home)

The top is a solid core door about 30" deep and 60" long. The frame is made of 2x4 sides with six 4x4 posts. The posts sit 1-5/8" ( actual thickness of a 2x4) below the top 2x4 with a 2x4 screwed down into the top of the 4x4. This way the top is screwed from the bottom so there are no fasteners from the top.

The shelving is made from 5/4 x 8 white pine.

Would you like me to draw up dimensions of mine?

Jeff

Adeptus_Minor · 04-02-2010, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple

I made the bench myself and designed it so it comes apart easily. ( I made it when I lived at my other house and knew we were going to purchase a different home)

The top is a solid core door about 30" deep and 60" long. The frame is made of 2x4 sides with six 4x4 posts. The posts sit 1-5/8" ( actual thickness of a 2x4) below the top 2x4 with a 2x4 screwed down into the top of the 4x4. This way the top is screwed from the bottom so there are no fasteners from the top.

The shelving is made from 5/4 x 8 white pine.

Would you like me to draw up dimensions of mine?

Jeff

That's what I think I'm going to have to do for myself when I get into a house (somewhere with real storage). All the premade benches I've seen, which rich in features, are just too stinkin' expensive.

Also... nice collection there. Looks like a 700 BDL Deluxe, 2 Garands, an AR, and a FAL

But no Schmidt Rubin K31?

'73 H1 Triple · 04-02-2010, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adeptus_Minor

That's what I think I'm going to have to do for myself when I get into a house (somewhere with real storage). All the premade benches I've seen, which rich in features, are just too stinkin' expensive.

Also... nice collection there. Looks like a 700 BDL Deluxe, 2 Garands, an AR, and a FAL

But no Schmidt Rubin K31?

What you misidentified as the rem is a mauser 98 in .308 The "FAL" is a L1A1 ( price/value difference )

The remington is in the middle

Ruger MK II in .330 Win Mag
Rem 700 in 7mm Rem Mag
Win 70 in .270 WBY

Adeptus_Minor · 04-02-2010, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '73 H1 Triple

What you misidentified as the rem is a mauser 98 in .308 The "FAL" is a L1A1 ( price/value difference )

Well, it wasn't a perfect picture

Still, nice collection.
I'd kill for just one of the Garands (maybe the other so I could trade it for a M1903A1)

racedoll · 06-21-2010, 09:22 PM

Well, I finally got my reloading bench. It is an old dresser. Something my Dad used as his bench back when he started so it seemed kind of fitting. I just got it in here this weekend, still trying to organize how I want things. I have so little stuff and so much room (right now) that I have plenty of options.

Adeptus_Minor · 06-21-2010, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racedoll

Well, I finally got my reloading bench. It is an old dresser. Something my Dad used as his bench back when he started so it seemed kind of fitting.

Wow... practicality and style!

racedoll · 06-21-2010, 11:13 PM

My first reloads. The very first one crimped so I had to back that die off. The rest turned out perfect. Now to shoot them!

01-24-2010, 02:30 PM	#1
'73 H1 Triple restorer of the original Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Zionsville,PA Moto: '93 ZR1100 &'73 Kawasaki H1 500 Posts: 1,331	{ How To } Reloading center fire pistol ammo Here's step by step instruction ( with pics ) on how to load center fire ammo. I'm doing .357 plinking ammo . The press is a single stage RCBC Rock Chucker, part of the Master Kit I got about 17 years ago. No cliffs, details are too important to skim over. Also, safety glasses would be good to wear at all times. Click the pictures for large view. Above is the once fired cases, a set of reloading dies and in the orange case, shell holders. Notice the titanium ring on the left die. If you have titanium nitride or carbide insert resizing dies, you do NOT have to lube the cases for resizing. Pick the correct size shell holder ( from the chart and place that in the press ram. Screw in the resizing die until it almost touches and resize you cases. Check for overall length after resizing. Trim and deburr if necessary. Next step is to make a slight bell in the case opening. All you need is just enough for the bullet to start. The left and middle cases are belled while the right case is resized only. Also during this time, check your cases for any defects ( cracks etc ). If in doubt, throw it out ( like the case below- the end looks funny and it got tossed) Using a primer pocket brush, clean the primer pocket to remove any burnt residue from the previous primer. Above is the easiest way I've found to load the primer tool. Open pack to the required amount ( I usually do no more than 50 primers myself ), place the tray over it and while holding them together, turn it over. Remove primer package and make sure all are facing the correct way ( explosive primer compound UP ). ( note-these are large pistol primers which are not correct for .357 cases-- I primed some .44 mag cases ) After you have verified the correct powder, weight of charge for the bullet weight, throw and adjust the charge until it weighs correctly on the scale. I have found the best way to get a more consistent charge on my powder throw is to "click" the handle twice ( lightly ) where it picks up the powder charge. I put the primed, bell case under the powder throw and place a charge. I check ever 10th charge on the scale. If it varies , I dump those previous 10 and do it again. I always work from one tray to another. My primed, belled cases are in the blue tray. I pick one up, place it under the powder throw, place and charge and it goes in the wooden tray. This way if they are handled, they get powder. :thumbs: Look into each and every case for the same powder level. If it doesn't look right, dump the powder back in the powder throw and do it again. A missing/light charge could lodge a bullet in the barrel and the next round fired could blow up the gun. A double charge could blow up the gun in your hands. Neither is a good thing Now you will be seating bullets. The main die section height controls the crimping of the bullet and the threaded portion controls the bullet height ( and overall length) Too much crimp with smash/crinkle the case and not enough crimp will let the bullet move in the case. In the case of a revolver, too light a crimp will allow the bullet during the firing of the other rounds and it may jam the cylinder ( keep it from turning ) Here we are after loading 50 rounds Be safe, have fun and enjoy Jeff

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04-01-2010, 10:38 PM	#3
racedoll AMA Supersport Join Date: Nov 2008 Moto: '04 Kawasaki ZX6RR Posts: 3,392	What kind of bench are you using for this? I'm looking for ideas.

06-21-2010, 09:22 PM	#8
racedoll AMA Supersport Join Date: Nov 2008 Moto: '04 Kawasaki ZX6RR Posts: 3,392	Well, I finally got my reloading bench. It is an old dresser. Something my Dad used as his bench back when he started so it seemed kind of fitting. I just got it in here this weekend, still trying to organize how I want things. I have so little stuff and so much room (right now) that I have plenty of options.

06-21-2010, 11:13 PM	#10
racedoll AMA Supersport Join Date: Nov 2008 Moto: '04 Kawasaki ZX6RR Posts: 3,392	My first reloads. The very first one crimped so I had to back that die off. The rest turned out perfect. Now to shoot them!